Births on January 10

Milton Parker, American businessman, co-founded the Carnegie Deli (d. 2009)

Milton Parker (January 10, 1919 – January 30, 2009) was a pivotal figure in New York City's culinary landscape, best known as the co-owner of the legendary Carnegie Deli. Situated prominently at 55th Street and Seventh Avenue, adjacent to the historic Carnegie Hall in the vibrant borough of Manhattan, the deli stood as an iconic destination for traditional Jewish delicatessen fare. Parker primarily operated behind the scenes, meticulously overseeing the preparation of the deli's famed, towering pastrami sandwiches. His collaborative partner, Leo Steiner, served as the charismatic "tummler"—a Yiddish term for an entertainer or lively host—who captivated a diverse clientele, including celebrated personalities, loyal locals, and inquisitive tourists.

The Formative Years and Path to the Carnegie Deli

Born on January 10, 1919, in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, Milton Parker faced early challenges with the passing of both his parents, Jacob and Jennie Picker Packowitz, during his childhood. As a teenager, he honed his work ethic in various Brooklyn diners and luncheonettes, gaining foundational experience in the food service industry. Demonstrating an entrepreneurial spirit, Parker eventually opened his own coffee shop within a mall near Levittown, New York, a pioneering suburban community. After successfully operating this establishment for several years, he sold the business in the 1970s. However, the quiet life of retirement proved unfulfilling, as he quickly grew bored after just a year away from the bustle of business. A fortuitous encounter with a business broker, who informed him that the esteemed Carnegie Deli was available for purchase, led Parker to become part of a syndicate that acquired the venerable establishment. In 1976, Parker officially took over the Carnegie Deli in partnership with Leo Steiner and a third, less active partner who later divested his share. Following Steiner's passing in 1987, Parker continued his dedicated work until his own retirement in 2002, at which point management transitioned to his son-in-law, Sanford Levine. Parker’s distinctive business cards proudly proclaimed him as "Milton Parker, CPM (Certified Pastrami Maven)," a testament to his unparalleled expertise and passion for the craft of pastrami.

Culinary Artistry and Front-of-House Charisma

Milton Parker’s domain was the kitchen, where his mastery ensured the authentic taste of traditional Eastern European Jewish cuisine. He was the architect behind the deli's signature smoked meats—including succulent corned beef, richly spiced pastrami, tender brisket, and flavorful tongue—all generously piled into sandwiches reaching an impressive 5 inches (approximately 130 mm) in height. Beyond the legendary sandwiches, Parker’s culinary purview also encompassed other deli staples like hearty chicken soup adorned with fluffy matzah balls, crisp pickles, and the restaurant's renowned cheesecake. This unwavering commitment to quality and tradition made the Carnegie Deli a benchmark for classic Jewish deli food. Meanwhile, Leo Steiner, Parker's dynamic partner, reigned as the undisputed master of ceremonies in the bustling dining room. Steiner was celebrated for his ability to warmly greet a continuous stream of celebrities—such as Woody Allen, Jackie Mason, Yves Montand, and Henny Youngman—personally escorting them to their preferred tables. He effortlessly entertained the throngs of tourists drawn from the nearby Theater District, who came not just for the food but for the unique, festive atmosphere that Steiner so expertly cultivated. The synergy between Parker’s unwavering dedication to culinary excellence and Steiner’s captivating front-of-house presence was instrumental in forging the Carnegie Deli’s iconic status.

The Legendary "Pastrami War"

Among the multitude of delicatessens vying for supremacy in the area, the Carnegie Deli engaged in a long-standing and storied rivalry with its close competitor, the Stage Deli, located just a few blocks away. For a significant period, the Stage Delicatessen enjoyed a superior reputation. However, a pivotal 1979 article published in The New York Times dramatically shifted the balance, specifically rating the Carnegie Deli's pastrami as unequivocally superior. This critical acclaim not only spurred a massive surge in business for the Carnegie Deli but also ignited what quickly became known as the "Pastrami War"—a spirited, albeit often good-natured, competition for deli dominance. While both establishments routinely saw customers queuing outside their doors, Parker often dismissed the Stage Deli’s success with a characteristic quip, asserting that "They're living off our overflow," implying that their rival merely benefited from the spillover of the Carnegie’s immense popularity. A notable, if amusing, allegation in this "war" concerned the origin of the pastrami. It was claimed that the Carnegie Deli’s pastrami was prepared at its commissary in Secaucus, New Jersey, using water from the Garden State. This stood in stark contrast to the Stage Deli, which proudly asserted its pastrami brine was made using authentic New York City water—a subtle jab at the notion that New York City's unique water composition contributes to the distinct quality of its bagels, pizza, and, by extension, its pastrami.

Cultural Footprint and Expansion Efforts

Cinematic Fame and a Knish Introduction

The Carnegie Deli’s distinct ambiance and culinary renown were immortalized in popular culture, notably through Woody Allen’s 1984 film Broadway Danny Rose. Much of the movie, which follows the misadventures of a hapless talent agent portrayed by Allen, features memorable scenes filmed over meals at the deli, further cementing its status as a cultural landmark. Despite the restaurant's opening in 1938, a surprising omission from its traditional menu was rectified in 1988 when Milton Parker himself introduced knishes—a beloved Ashkenazi Jewish baked or fried dough filled with various ingredients like potato, kasha, or cheese. To mark this new addition and generate publicity, Parker orchestrated a lively knish-eating competition. This entertaining stunt saw a Brooklyn soda salesman, who remarkably had never eaten a knish before, claim the $250 prize by managing to consume an impressive four and a half of the one-pound knishes within the allotted 15 minutes.

The Short-Lived Los Angeles Venture

In a significant bid to expand the brand's reach, a Los Angeles branch of the Carnegie Deli, co-owned by billionaire Marvin Davis, launched with considerable fanfare in July 1989. The grand opening festivities included memorable spectacles such as actress Carol Channing ceremonially dropping a giant Styrofoam matzoh ball into a correspondingly huge bowl of chicken soup, and a 6-foot-long (1.8 m) salami being sliced in place of the more conventional ribbon cutting. Despite the initial buzz and celebrity endorsement, the West Coast outpost struggled to replicate the success of its New York counterpart. Facing declining business and a barrage of negative reviews, including Zagat Survey's local restaurant guide famously labeling its chicken soup as the city's "worst," the Los Angeles branch ultimately closed its doors in November 1994, highlighting the challenges of transplanting an iconic New York institution.

Milton Parker's Enduring Legacy

Upon Milton Parker's passing, Catskills Mountains comedian Freddie Roman offered a humorous yet poignant lament, perfectly encapsulating the deli's larger-than-life reputation and Parker's indulgent portions. Roman reminisced, "In the history of delicatessens, Milton Parker's Carnegie Deli caused more heartburn to the Jewish world than anything I've ever heard of" and famously quipped that "His pastrami sandwich was incredibly much too large for human consumption." These affectionate exaggerations underscored the deli's commitment to generosity and the sheer scale of its offerings under Parker's tenure. A devoted resident of Manhattan, Milton Parker passed away at the age of 90 on January 30, 2009, due to respiratory problems. He was survived by his wife of 62 years, the former Mildred Levy, a son, a daughter, a brother, and a granddaughter, leaving behind a legacy that continues to define the quintessential New York City deli experience.

Frequently Asked Questions About Milton Parker and the Carnegie Deli

Who was Milton Parker?

Milton Parker was the co-owner of the iconic Carnegie Deli in New York City, known for his behind-the-scenes culinary mastery, particularly in preparing the deli's famous towering pastrami sandwiches. He was also an astute businessman who helped acquire the deli in 1976.

What was Milton Parker's role at the Carnegie Deli?

Parker was primarily responsible for the kitchen operations and the preparation of all the traditional Eastern European Jewish cuisine, including the smoked meats (pastrami, corned beef, brisket, tongue), chicken soup, and matzah balls. His business card famously identified him as a "Certified Pastrami Maven."

Who was Leo Steiner and what was his role?

Leo Steiner was Milton Parker's partner and the charismatic "tummler" (entertainer/host) of the Carnegie Deli. He was responsible for the front-of-house experience, greeting celebrities and tourists, and ensuring a lively and engaging dining atmosphere.

What was the "Pastrami War"?

The "Pastrami War" was a notable rivalry between the Carnegie Deli and the nearby Stage Deli. It gained prominence after a 1979 New York Times article rated the Carnegie Deli's pastrami as superior, igniting a humorous yet intense competition over which deli offered the best traditional Jewish fare.

Did the Carnegie Deli appear in any movies?

Yes, the Carnegie Deli achieved significant cultural recognition by being featured in Woody Allen's 1984 film Broadway Danny Rose, with many scenes filmed within the bustling deli itself.

When did Milton Parker retire?

Milton Parker retired from the Carnegie Deli in 2002, with his son-in-law, Sanford Levine, taking over the management.