Apa Sherpa, Nepalese-American mountaineer

Apa, born Lhakpa Tenzing Sherpa on 20 January 1960, is a highly renowned Nepalese Sherpa mountaineer, affectionately nicknamed "Super Sherpa" for his extraordinary strength and unparalleled endurance in the high-altitude environment of the Himalayas. Until 2017, Apa Sherpa, alongside fellow legendary climber Phurba Tashi, held the remarkable world record for reaching the summit of Mount Everest more times than any other individual in history. His career significantly contributed to defining the pivotal and often understated role of Sherpa people in high-altitude expeditions, showcasing their inherent resilience and profound connection to the mountains.

A Career Defined by Milestones and Environmental Stewardship

Apa Sherpa's illustrious mountaineering career spans over two decades, marked by numerous ascents that pushed the boundaries of human endurance. His first successful summit of Mount Everest occurred in 1990, a significant milestone that set the stage for his subsequent record-breaking achievements. His final ascent, his 21st, took place in May 2011 as a crucial part of The Eco Everest Expedition. This particular expedition was not merely about reaching the summit; it carried a vital environmental message, focusing on cleaning up decades of accumulated waste from the world's highest mountain. This initiative highlighted Apa's dedication not only to climbing but also to preserving the pristine, sacred environment of Everest.

After his 21st successful summit, Apa Sherpa made the momentous decision to retire from professional high-altitude climbing. This decision was largely influenced by a solemn promise he had made to his wife, who had long worried about the immense dangers inherent in scaling Mount Everest. While he had initially contemplated completing 22 ascents, the overwhelming concern for his family's well-being ultimately led him to conclude his legendary career at 21 summits. This personal sacrifice underscores the profound emotional toll that professional mountaineering can have on climbers and their loved ones.

Navigating Extreme Peril: The Khumbu Icefall and a Near Miss

Throughout his extensive career, Apa Sherpa gained invaluable experience navigating some of the world's most perilous terrains. He estimates that he traversed the treacherous Khumbu Icefall an astonishing 1,000 times. The Khumbu Icefall, located at the head of the Khumbu Glacier, is one of the most dangerous stages of the South Col route to Mount Everest's summit. It is characterized by rapidly shifting glaciers, massive crevasses that can open up without warning, and colossal seracs (ice pinnacles) that can collapse at any moment, making each passage a life-threatening gamble. His extraordinary number of transits through this frozen labyrinth stands as a testament to his exceptional skill, profound experience, and sheer resilience.

Apa Sherpa also narrowly avoided being part of the ill-fated 1996 Mount Everest expedition, which tragically claimed the lives of several climbers, including renowned expedition leader Rob Hall. This devastating event, widely documented and serving as a stark reminder of Everest's unpredictable nature, further highlights the constant dangers Apa Sherpa faced throughout his career and the extraordinary fortune that accompanied his numerous successful ascents.

The Enduring Legacy and Evolving Records

Apa Sherpa's influence extends beyond his personal climbing achievements. He maintained a close relationship with Sir Edmund Hillary, one of the first two individuals confirmed to have reached Everest's summit. In a poignant connection to this historic legacy, Apa Sherpa was part of the 1990 expedition where he summited Everest for the first time, alongside Sir Edmund Hillary's son, Peter Hillary, who also achieved his inaugural summit during that same expedition. This shared experience forged a unique bond, connecting Apa to the pioneering spirit of Everest's early conquerors.

When reflecting on his decision to retire at 21 summits, Apa Sherpa eloquently articulated his motivation, stating: "Everyone says 21 is a good number. I have to make my family happy. Every time I go, they worry because Everest is very risky." This sentiment encapsulates the deep personal reasons behind his decision, prioritizing the peace of mind of his family over the pursuit of further records.

As of 2017, Apa Sherpa continued to jointly hold the world record for the most Mount Everest summits with Phurba Tashi and Kami Rita Sherpa. However, the record has since been surpassed. In 2018, Kami Rita Sherpa, another phenomenal Nepalese mountaineer, broke this long-standing record, continuing the remarkable legacy of Sherpa climbers pushing the boundaries of human endeavor on the world's highest peak. Apa Sherpa's contributions, however, remain etched in mountaineering history, solidifying his status as a true legend and an inspiration to climbers worldwide.

Frequently Asked Questions About Apa Sherpa

Who is Apa Sherpa?

Apa Sherpa, born Lhakpa Tenzing Sherpa, is a celebrated Nepalese Sherpa mountaineer renowned for his record-breaking number of successful ascents of Mount Everest. He is often referred to as "Super Sherpa" due to his exceptional strength and resilience in high-altitude environments.

How many times did Apa Sherpa summit Mount Everest?

Apa Sherpa successfully summited Mount Everest 21 times, with his first ascent in 1990 and his final one in May 2011.

Why did Apa Sherpa retire from climbing Mount Everest?

Apa Sherpa retired from professional climbing primarily due to a promise he made to his wife and family, who constantly worried about his safety given the extreme risks associated with scaling Mount Everest. He emphasized the importance of his family's happiness and peace of mind.

What is the Khumbu Icefall, and why is it significant to Apa Sherpa's career?

The Khumbu Icefall is a highly dangerous and constantly moving glacier located on the standard South Col route to Mount Everest's summit. It is notorious for its unstable ice formations, deep crevasses, and towering seracs. Apa Sherpa remarkably traversed this perilous section an estimated 1,000 times, a testament to his unparalleled experience and skill.

Who holds the current record for the most Mount Everest summits?

While Apa Sherpa jointly held the record until 2017, the current record for the most Mount Everest summits is held by Kami Rita Sherpa, who surpassed Apa's record in 2018.