Caresse Crosby, American fashion designer and publisher, co-founded the Black Sun Press (b. 1891)

Pioneering Spirit: The Remarkable Life and Legacy of Caresse Crosby

Caresse Crosby, born Mary Phelps Jacob on April 20, 1892, and passing away on January 24, 1970, was a truly multifaceted American figure whose life journey seamlessly wove together the threads of inventive genius, passionate arts patronage, groundbreaking publishing, and a profoundly unconventional personal existence. She holds a unique place in history as the first recipient of a patent for the modern bra, a seemingly simple invention that would revolutionize women's fashion and comfort. Beyond this innovation, Crosby emerged as a pivotal "literary godmother to the Lost Generation of expatriate writers in Paris," offering not just encouragement but a crucial platform for many who would shape 20th-century literature.

Pioneering the Modern Bra

Before she became a celebrated patron of the arts, Caresse Crosby's inventive spirit led her to make a significant contribution to everyday life. In 1913, at the age of 21 and still known as Mary Phelps Jacob, she found herself frustrated by the restrictive and cumbersome nature of the corsets prevalent at the time, especially when worn under fashionable evening gowns that often revealed the back. Her ingenious solution was both simple and revolutionary: she fashioned a more comfortable and liberating garment using two handkerchiefs, ribbon, and a needle and thread, creating what she termed a "backless brassiere." This innovative design offered support without the rigid boning and bulk of traditional undergarments, allowing for unprecedented freedom of movement. Recognizing its potential, she applied for a patent, which was granted on November 3, 1914, as U.S. Patent 1,115,674. Although she later sold her patent rights to the Warner Brothers Corset Company for a modest sum of $1,500, her design laid the foundational blueprint for the modern bra, marking a pivotal moment in the evolution of women's undergarments and contributing to the gradual liberation of women's fashion.

Early Life and Unconventional Beginnings

Born into a lineage deeply rooted in American history, Caresse Crosby's parents, William Hearn Jacob and Mary (née Phelps) Jacob, traced their ancestry to prominent colonial families, including the esteemed Van Rensselaer family through her father and William Phelps through her mother. In 1915, Mary, affectionately nicknamed Polly, entered into a conventional marriage with Richard R. Peabody, another scion of a distinguished Bostonian family whose ancestors had arrived in New Hampshire as early as 1635. The couple had two children, but the genteel facade of proper Boston society began to unravel during Richard's service in World War I. While he was away, Polly met Harry Crosby, a charismatic individual seven years her junior, at a picnic in 1920. Their immediate and intense connection quickly blossomed into a public affair, which, given the strict social mores of the time, profoundly scandalized conservative Boston society. Upon Richard’s return from military service, he reportedly struggled with post-war psychological distress, exhibiting erratic behaviors such as a disturbing fascination with watching buildings burn. Two years later, he granted Polly a divorce, paving the way for her marriage to Harry Crosby. The newlywed couple, eager to escape American conventions, promptly embarked on a life-altering journey to Europe, where they would immerse themselves in the burgeoning bohemian movement.

The Black Sun Press: A Literary Haven in Paris

Upon their arrival in Europe, Caresse and Harry Crosby found their true calling amidst the vibrant, post-World War I artistic landscape. They quickly assimilated into the "Lost Generation," a term popularized by Ernest Hemingway, which characterized the generation of American writers, artists, and intellectuals who came of age during or immediately after World War I. This group, feeling disillusioned with traditional values and seeking new forms of expression, often became expatriates in Paris, finding creative solace and a sense of liberation. The Crosbys fully embraced a daring, bohemian, and often decadent lifestyle that deliberately defied societal norms. Their existence was largely sustained by Harry's substantial trust fund, which provided US$12,000 a year – a considerable sum that equates to approximately $181,000 in today's dollars, granting them immense financial freedom to pursue their passions without commercial pressures. Their relationship itself was unconventional, marked by an open marriage, numerous ongoing affairs, frequent drug use, wild parties, a dramatic suicide pact, and extensive international travel, all reflecting a fervent pursuit of ultimate freedom and experience.

It was within this intense and fertile creative environment that their groundbreaking publishing venture truly took shape. At Harry’s urging, Polly formally adopted the more artistic and evocative name Caresse in 1924. In 1925, they commenced publishing their own poetry under the imprint Éditions Narcisse. These initial volumes quickly garnered acclaim for their exquisite printing and limited-edition runs, demonstrating the Crosbys' profound dedication to the aesthetic quality of book production itself. Recognizing the broader potential of their enterprise, they re-christened their business in 1927 as the Black Sun Press. This independent press rapidly became a pivotal platform for some of the most influential and often controversial early works by authors who would later achieve global renown. Their impressive roster included literary giants such as Ernest Hemingway, Archibald MacLeish, Henry Miller, Anaïs Nin, Kay Boyle, Charles Bukowski, Hart Crane, and Robert Duncan. The Black Sun Press distinguished itself by fearlessly championing experimental literature and producing high-quality, often luxurious, editions that appealed to discerning collectors and avant-garde readers, thereby providing an essential voice and distribution channel for works that challenged mainstream sensibilities.

Tragedy and Continued Legacy

The Crosbys' intensely passionate and tumultuous life together reached a tragic and scandalous climax in 1929. One of Harry Crosby’s numerous affairs culminated in his death as part of a highly publicized murder-suicide or double suicide. The event ignited a media frenzy, with newspapers wildly speculating about the precise circumstances, further cementing the couple's controversial public image. Despite the profound personal loss and intense scrutiny, Caresse Crosby demonstrated remarkable resilience. She returned to Paris and resolutely continued to manage the Black Sun Press, ensuring the preservation and continuation of her and Harry's distinctive literary legacy.

As the ominous shadow of World War II began to loom over Europe, Caresse, ever pragmatic and forward-thinking, decided to relocate to the United States in 1936. Her life continued to defy conventional expectations. She married Selbert Young, an unemployed, alcoholic actor 16 years her junior. Together, they embarked on the ambitious rehabilitation of a Virginia plantation outside Washington, D.C., a venture they pursued until their eventual divorce. Later, while living in Washington, D.C., Caresse entered into a significant and long-term romantic relationship with Canada Lee, a prominent Black actor and boxer. This relationship was particularly audacious and courageous given the pervasive and legally enforced miscegenation laws that criminalized interracial marriage and intimate relationships in many U.S. states until the landmark 1967 Supreme Court ruling in Loving v. Virginia. Crosby’s defiance in this personal choice powerfully underscored her lifelong rejection of societal norms and prejudices.

Her commitment to peace and the arts remained undiminished throughout her later years. During World War II, she founded Women Against War, an organization dedicated to advocating for global disarmament and non-violence. Following the war, Caresse passionately pursued her ambitious vision of establishing a Center for World Peace at Delphi, Greece. She chose Delphi, the ancient site of the Oracle, for its profound historical significance as a symbol of wisdom, dialogue, and international reconciliation. When Greek authorities rebuffed her proposal, Caresse, undeterred by obstacles, purchased the magnificent Castello di Rocca Sinibalda, a sprawling 15th-century castle nestled north of Rome. Here, she dedicated her resources and energy to supporting an international artists' colony, providing a vital sanctuary and creative hub for writers, painters, and sculptors from around the globe, thereby continuing her profound patronage of the arts. Caresse Crosby passed away in Rome in 1970, succumbing to pneumonia related to heart disease, leaving behind a remarkable and indelible legacy as a pioneering inventor, a fearless literary luminary, and a tireless advocate for freedom, peace, and creativity.

Frequently Asked Questions About Caresse Crosby

Who was Caresse Crosby?

Caresse Crosby, born Mary Phelps Jacob, was a prominent American figure known for patenting the modern bra, her significant role as an arts patron and publisher, and for fostering the "Lost Generation" of expatriate writers in Paris.

What was Caresse Crosby's most notable invention?

In 1914, Caresse Crosby was granted the first patent for the "backless brassiere." This groundbreaking design offered a more comfortable and less restrictive alternative to traditional corsets, laying the foundational blueprint for the modern bra.

What was the Black Sun Press and its significance?

The Black Sun Press was an influential independent publishing house founded by Caresse and Harry Crosby in Paris in 1927 (evolving from Éditions Narcisse established in 1925). It became renowned for publishing avant-garde and experimental works by future literary giants like Ernest Hemingway, Anaïs Nin, and Henry Miller, often in exquisitely printed, limited editions, providing a crucial platform for emerging voices.

How was Caresse Crosby connected to the "Lost Generation"?

Caresse Crosby was considered a "literary godmother" to the Lost Generation of American expatriate writers and artists in Paris. Through the Black Sun Press, she provided essential financial support, a vital publishing platform, and a vibrant social hub that nurtured and promoted many of the disillusioned yet prolific talents who shaped 20th-century literature.

How did Caresse Crosby continue her support for the arts later in life?

After returning to the U.S. and later settling in Italy, Caresse Crosby continued her arts patronage. She purchased Castello di Rocca Sinibalda, a 15th-century castle north of Rome, which she transformed into an international artists' colony, offering a sanctuary and creative space for writers and artists from around the world.